life continues to be amazingly good here. yesterday, sean, chris, thomas and i walked down to waipio valley for some great swimming, beach bumming and body boarding. it was a great day for it. lot's of waves, nothing but sun. the beach was as packed as any of us had every seen it, but it was by no means crowded at all.
this was my first attempt at this particular sport and i was pretty nervous about being in the way of other surfers, as well as generally looking like an idiot out in the water. additionally, i didn't bring any flippers because a) i didn't want to carry them and 2) i didn't want to wear them if sean (who is the only other one going out with me) wasn't going to. in retrospect, this was a piss poor decision on my part. swimming in the ocean is pretty exhausting anyway, but trying to stay up on the board, paddle with the leash on your arm and "duck dive" under waves and all with the added drag of the board really changes the game.
by the time i got out to where i could catch a decent wave, i sure didn't want to do anything but float on that board! so, i watched sean for a while and i watched the waves for a while. i sort of made a few half-assed attempts and then accidentally caught my first wave while i was just trying to get closer to sean so i could talk to him. wow! it was kind of scary, especially since i really had anticipated it, but it was more exhilarating than anything. you can be sure i didn't try to do anything fancy--like steer--but i did ride the wave all the way into the shallows. totally wicked. i caught one more wave before we came in for a rest, but i just rode that one straight in too.
later in the afternoon, we went out again, but i couldn't even paddle out of the shallows, because the waves were so strong and the sets so close. i got rocked by more than a few waves that sucked me out and down the beach. crazy stuff.
oh yeah! while we were chilling on the beach, this cute little kid, maybe four years old, came over to us and hung out for a while. the (black) sand was way hot, so he just ran right over and plopped down on my board with me. he saw our food, so we gave him a granola bar. and he saw chris' bamoboo flute, so we showed him how to play it. he just wanted to put his mouth over the hole and sing, though. some older guy came walking by with a surfboard and mowgli (that's the name we gave him, since he never gave us his) told him he wanted to go out too. well, i'll be damned if that little kid didn't end up riding on the dude's back while he surfed! i got a picture of it. what a lucky little kid, yeah?!
we left the beach around 2 or 3 i guess and had to walk back up the hill to the car. oh. christ. what a climb! 25-45% grade. 0.75 miles long. 900 feet high. and all this after i was plum tuckered out from swimming all day! not mine, but here are some pictures of the access road and valley.
last night was sort of the last hurrah for the three boys leaving this week, chris, kyle and thomas. for about a million reasons, i didn't go down to the cliffs with everyone else. i think i hate going away parties, much like i hate goodbyes. also, i didn't want to drink and, if i don't drink, i can barely stand drunk people. and, i think i just really needed some alone time, a precious rarity when you live, work and play with all the same people every day.
i guess i probably seem like a bitch for not going. i should have just sucked it up so i could spend the time with the parting kids. that would have been the normal thing to do. but, i'm not normal. i think i would have gone down there, had a horrible time and projected my anger about that onto those people. that's shitty. i'd much rather remember them well than see them every day before they leave.
i know i promised to write about the z-trail, but i think this entry is long enough already.
take care, my loves.